Bowles again ...

Well, we decided to head back to Bowles Rocks last weekend: James, Ana (my girlfriend and official photographer for the session) and Ines. Tried Fandango (5c) unsuccessfully, which feels desperately hard for a 5c. It is rumored that one of the bottom holds broke off and that would explain why this climb feels rather like a 6a. We also climbed the classic Sapper (4b), James and I did the Inspiration variation of the climb (5b) and Ines did the classic route. An unforgettable squeeze. Also tried Abracadabra (5a), one hell of a crack; Patella (6a), again unsuccessfully; Ly'in (6b) which I wasn't able to do (arggghhh), I keep falling at the crux but the bottom moves now feel much easier, James sent it again, officially redpointing it first 6b (last week he had actually done a bit of hangdogging); and finally we tried Ricochet (4b) which has a very tricky start and some delicate route finding, nice 4b! Next week we are planning to go to Yorkshire and try some hard grit, so see you then!

Having fun in Fandango:

This is a big number:

This weekend we had one of the most amazing climbing we have had this year at Bowles Rocks. James, Geraldine and I headed down to this beautiful climbing spot south of London, where we enjoyed the weather and some quality sandstone.
Our first climb of the day was Mick's Wall (5b), and awkward crack I onsighted easily but that took James unaware. He sent it in style after a series of failed attempts which made him improve his jamming technique the hard way. We next tried Mick's Wall Variation (6a) where I failed miserable. James showed a much better performance here but he found the top moves too hard to tackle.

Mick's Wall Struggle:


The great project of the day was The Banana (6a), climb we tried unsuccessfully a couple of weeks ago (see previous posts) and that we sent at our FIRST try this time. We can barely believe the top mantleshelf felt so easy this time! This is my first British 6a.
We then move onto Patella (6a), certainly much harder than Banana. Although neither of us could do the final couple of moves (argghhh!!!), we felt really satisfied we our performance here. This route is amazing I am confident we will be able to handle it in a couple of weeks!
The climbing for the day was going on far better than what we would have ever expected, but things were going to get even more exiting. There were a bunch of meaty hardmen trying impressive boulders in the Fandango wall. They moved later onto Ly'in slab (6b) which simply looks impossible. We watched them trying and failing again and again, and we dreamt about the day when we could tackle climbs at that grade.
After a good rest and after enjoying the hardmen show, we moved onto Pig's Ear (5c) and Pig's Nose (5a) two truly sandstone classics at their respective grades. Pig's Ear involves climbing on a shallow and flaky slab to reach an awkward overhang. This climb took a good couple of tries but we finally managed to send it. Pig's Nose, well, we simply flew past it! I had tried this climb some 3 years ago and its final, steep overhang felt so impossible!

Having fun on Pig's Ear:


Relaxed, and happy after such an amazing day, we started gathering our things before deciding whether to go home or do a little bit of light bouldering. We then passed again in front of Ly'in slab where a couple of guys where trying it unsuccessfully. When they were done and retrieved their ropes, I got onto it and tried the first couple of moves. Ummhh, it looked doable after all. James was getting exited and enticed me to put the rope up. He tried first, reaching for the first horizontal set of finger holes, and pulling real hard on them before stretching and reaching the second set, which is miserably smaller. James spent a good 5 min there trying to work out what to do next until he finally decided to traverse to the arete and finish up an easier route "this is too impossible man". I went up it, exited about how a 6b slab should feel. I managed to arrived at the second set of finger holes awkwardly, and started playing with them, trying to visualize a way to move forward up. I found a small mono for my left index finger, big enough for the first phalanx of my finger to go in. Gathering strength from where I didn't have it, I pulled hard on the mono, move my feet as high as possible, whole body under tension, and reached high up with my right hand to a miserably side pull sloper. Impossible. Went down the climb, taped my fingers to prevent injuring the pulleys and went up again. I repeated the same hard pull on the mono, but this time paid more attention to my footwork and reached further high up with my right hand to the upper ledge ..., I actually managed to touch the lip of the ledge before all my strength abandoned me and my body detached itself from the slab. Impossible is nothing, this is doable! "James I know you can do this!" He got really exited, so we swapped rope and belay and he went up it quickly. He performed his own version of the moves I had worked out and he actually managed to reach the upper ledge! Unbelievable, he had simply tackled the 6b crux of the climb! Despite James's phlegmatic character, I could see happiness pouring all over his face.

6b Glory:


I certainly wasn't going to give up that easily so I had another couple of goes. These later attempts where not as good as the first ones (argghhhh!). I went down the climb feeling a bit disappointed, but hey, a first 6a and 6b the same day? Not even in my wildest dreams! No worries, I'm sure next time I'll do this climb easily ...
Well done James!

So close ...

Cracks and Flakes!

For years I have heard my French friend Pascal talk about a hard climb called the 'flex' down at Harrison's Rocks. He would mention this climb again and again, and how he would try it every New Year's Day, sometimes successfully, sometimes failing miserably. I was intrigued by this climb's name. I would try to imaging its crux sequence involving some 'flexy' moves. Last summer Pascal showed me the climb, and after checking the guide book I realised that it is called 'The Flakes' (6a), and the climb itself involves a rightwards traverse using a series of flakes and a very hard move pulling over an overhang to gain the top. Last Saturday I went with my climbing mates James and Geraldine to Harrison's and had a go at it. None of us could handle the crux moves but nonetheless were satisfied by our performance. I reckon that a couple of weekends more and we will be able to handle it!

Yours truly hanging onto the Flakes:



Jame's Stupid effort:



Another crazy climb we tried was 'Stupid Effort' (5b), to be tackled with one of the most wicked sequence of moves I have seen in a climb at this grade. The above pic shows James sending the crux slab, involving a mantle shelf for the left arm, a tiny sloper for the right hand and an awkward stretch for the left leg!

Geraldine getting 'high' up onto Stupid Effort:



Other highlights of the day included the savage 'Slimfinger' (5c), and the squeazy peasy 'Long Crack' (4b), the latter one a true classic, where inproper offwidth technique can take more than one experience climber into an unexpected struggle.

Sandstone tour

Our climbing leader, James Davies, is in talks to become editor of the www.southernsandstone.co.uk website, so this weekend we decided to go for a sandstone tour and try some hard climbs at Bowles Rocks, Eridge Green and Bulls Hollow, check the conditions and take some pictures!




Bowles Rocks: The Banana 6a

Our first stop was at Bowles, where we all tried the famous Banana climb! This route was previously graded 5c, but the tree that was at the top was removed, and the exit is now much harder, and the climb is now considered 6a. The banana was too much for us that day, with the last moves proving elusive. James did his hip trying the moves at the top so he sadly had to stop climbing for the rest of the day ... However he enjoyed the nice weather getting high and taking some terrific pictures!





Eridge Green

Our next stop was at Eridge Green, where the car park boulders offer plenty of high graded climbs to waste anyone! Patrik had a particularly nice session here, sending Too Short (5c), Trainer Drainer (5c) and Equilibrium Wall (5a) among others.




Bulls Hollow

Our last stop was Bulls Hollow, where last year's restoration project has considerably improved the rock conditions. It is still wet, muddy, greasy and slippery, but hopefully after a long hot summer spell we might finally see these rocks dry! Patrik and I were too knackered to succed in Pseudonym (5c) so we settled for a disappointingly easy 4c next to it.

Portugal

Last week I managed to do some rock climbing with my dad in Portugal, in the Redinha region. A nice limestone outcrop on the top of a hill with a very nice view over the green sorrounding valleys. The route above was the hardest I dared to try, "Diga a Frase" F6a+. Also tried a couple of V+'s, a V and a IV+, and all felt much harder than what I'm used to at the West Way here in London. The limestone here has some crazy features, and there is even a little church built into the crag!

Sardinia

My climbing mates went to Sardinia a couple of weeks ago, in order to enjoy a bit of the mediterranean sun while doing some hard limestone climbing. I was green with envy because I wasn't able to go with them! Here are some really cool pics.

Shorn Cliff Expedition

Last Saturday the climbing team went to Shorn Cliff (James, Patrik, Ed and yours truly), in the rainforests of the Wye Valley. It was cold, but very sunny. The friction on the rock was excellent, the climbing terrific, and the views down to the Wye River and Tinter Abbey breathtaking. The above picture was taking by Patrik and shows the approach trough the woods.

James's Wars:


James got his warrior gear ready to tackle two big battles: Phoney War, HS 4b (picture), and War of the Worlds, VS, 4c. Both are beautiful climbs on superb rock with excellent protection, really enjoyable. James's victim was Ed, who had to second both climbs in a sometimes struggling style, with a bit of hangdogging here and there. I also tried War of the Worlds and it was my first lead of the day, I have to say that there are some committing moves at the top of this climb, which I cowardly avoided deviating to an easier line, however, James sent the straight line with great confidence, well done man!

Patrik's commitment:


Patrik also had a great climbing day. He flashed Phoney War, his first trad climb! After a lot of hesitation whether to try first some easier climb (like a Vdiff) he finally decided to go for this Hard Severe! He had seconded War of the Worlds previously so this surely felt easy for him, you can see his face full of satisfaction (picture).


Here's the climbing team after Patrik's and James's successfully sent their hard leads. From left to right: Mario, Patrik, Ed and James.

Rain of Tears:


I also had my hard climb of the day: Tigers don't cry, HVS, 5b. This is a beautiful line and a true Wye Valley classic. My first ever 5b trad! The climb follows a strenuous finger crack, and requires a lot of technical bridging onto small footholds. When I finally managed to get to the top I was crying like a baby, but not from fear but from satisfaction! I never thought I would flash a climb like that! A great route to finish a great day.

Good Bye Abbey:


We finished the day knackered but full of satisfaction after our climbing achievements. During our way back to the car park we passed in front of Tintern Abbey, beautifully illuminated and standing out in the dark, a symbol that will be forever linked to Shorn magnificent cliffs.

GOD R.I.P.

Yesterday we went for a climbing session at the West Way, to discover, to our horror, that the Great Overhanging Dude had been dismantled. It's sad such a fine climb has passed away. Nonetheless, new and more challenging routes had been set up in its place, so, keep climbing dudes!

Finsbury Park.

This Sunday we settled for a calmed climbing session at Sobell Leisure Centre, near Finsbury Park. It's a small climbing facility, but it has a features wall where sport leading can be practiced, given the novice/intermediate climber a taste for what it is like to climb real rocks. The competition wall is very tall, and it provides more challenging, and scarier routes for the advanced climbers.

Oh my GOD...!

The Great Overhanging Dude (GOD) at the West Way Climbing Wall is a great challenge for any intermedium climber. It is savagely overhanging but with big holds, it's long and sustained, and it's a climb to test your endurance and stamina (F6a+). After three months attempting it, I finally red-pointed it yesterday evening, giving way to one of the most elated feelings I climber can ever have. My climbing partners Patrik and James have also been trying this climb, and they're both very close to red-point it as well ..., go on guys! I will also try to convince my old french partner, Pascal, to give it a try, although he doesn't 'like to try climbs he knows he's going to fall off' and I would also try to convince our Slovakian climber Rastislav to give it a go, although he's so strong I'm sure he can flash it easily, ... go on Rasto!
The climb follows the grey bolt-on ladder that follows the yellow line in the picture above. And below, there I am, very close to the top, in my little moment of glory. Oh my GOD, when I was there I thought I wouldn't do it!

Eridge Green Demolition II

This Sunday we went back to Eridge Green, for another session of remorseless cracks. This time I was better prepared and I covered my hands with athletic tape so they didn't bleed so badly (see my first blog). The highlight of the day was Eridge Tower, with one of the most terrific cracks that can ever be climbed in sandstone 'Battlement Crack' 5a (pic), where appropriate foot jamming technique is needed to top out successfully (I still got to do Coronation Crack at High Rocks). Left of this climb is 'Barbican Buttress' 4b, an elegant corner that finishes with a very polished slab, and right of it is 'Porticulis' 5c, which looks very hard ...

Pascal's new blog!

Well Pascal has decided to start his own blog, this is the french guy that paradoxically introduced me to Brithish climbing. So if you want to see more pics of sandstone climbs go to

Brixton climbers

Enjoy!

Slippery Slab!

The highlight of last sunday trip to Stone Farm was Pascal redpoint of 'Pinnacle Buttress' which is supposed to be a 5a slab. We reckon nowdays is probably closer to 5b because the footholds are now extremely polished. The climb itself involves some very technical moves with precarious foot smears and a very crimpy finger hold in the crux sequence. Neither Cristian (who has flashed 6a), nor me nor Patrik (we both climb at around 5b - 5c) could do the climb. Well done Pascal ... !

Patrik's first solo!

Patrik achieved his first solo climb! He sent 'SE Corner Crack' in 'Unaccessible Boulder' at Stone Farm. Well, the climb is only 4b but it has an unexpectedly savage start (for its grade), and some easy but bold moves at the top. This route is perhaps the easiest way to access this unaccessible piece of rock, otherwise there is no other way to put a rope up there unless you solo some of the other harder (and bolder) climbs!

Stone Farm

This weekend we went to Stone Farm near East Grinstead. Another outstanding sandstone crop, where the word 'sandstone' really achieves the essense of its meaning, because literally the rock 'sands away' from beneath your hands and feet. The rocks are very eroded, and the grades seem misleading, probably because of the erosion. Expect a fierce struggle while climbing 'easy' routes like Key Wall (4c) in the amazing Stone Farm Pinnacle. The setting of the rocks is impressive, they are very exposed and you can enjoy amazing views down to the Weir Wood Reservoir. Visiting the rocks is a very nice experience.

Under Rockes

Two sundays ago I climbed my first 5c, the nicest thing is that I flashed it! Here goes the pic, the brilliant Central Crack at Under Rockes, a little gem hidden in the woods. Left of the crack is Pot Holed Wall, which contains other brilliant climbs, all rated 5c and above (definetedly not a crag for beginners!). Right side of the crag is Evening Arete, perhaps the hardest 5b I've ever done! Highly recommended.

Eridge Green Demolition

Here I am posting my first blog. My fingers hurt when I type on the keyboard. Yesterday we went to Eridge Green Rocks, near Tunbridge Wells, to practice a bit of rock climbing. After tackling some 5b and 5c overhanging cracks, my hands were left a bloody mess. So here I am, withstanding the pain and resting to recover from this demolition ...