Friday, June 10, 2005
Separate reality, one of the most iconic roof climbs in Yosemite Valley, has had recently its second solo ascent. In 1986, the pictures of Wolfgang Güllich soloing this impresive, horizontal, 6m crack, hanging 200m above the Merced River went around the world. Hainz Zak, who shot Wolfgang's iconic pictures made the second ascent. More info here.
Posted by Mario dos Reis at 3:27 PM
Monday, June 06, 2005
I'm well on my way to becoming a bailing out expert. I did my BSc at Wye Valley, with One for All ... (5a HVS), when I had to bail out very close to the top because of nasty rain and a very, very slippery slab. Last Saturday was the turn of Cenotaph Corner (5c E1), a climb that needs no introduction. We arrived late in the morning at the bottom of the corner, after a nasty scramble on very slippery rock. The right wall of the corner was completely wet, in fact, a sort of subtle water fall. Nonetheless, I decided that after all the effort I had had to have a go at it. It seems that I didn't learn the lesson properly in Wye Valley. Anyway, a wet horrorshow ensued that left me hopelessly hanging from the middle of the climb. I ended wet, cold and numb, and with a well earned MSc on bailing out. Never try your first E1 in the rain! I am now looking for the PhD ...
Posted by Mario dos Reis at 6:36 PM
Angel Falls, with its 978m drop, is the highest water fall on earth. Its waters fall along a massively overhanging, ancient sandstone wall. A team of British, Russian and Venezuelan climbers made a clean first free ascent along the steepest part of the wall. 31 pitches in total, with 9 graded E7, 19 days of climbing, 14 on the wall. No bolts or pegs left on the wall. More info at
http://climbing.com/news/venezuelarran/. Truly an amazing accomplishment!
Posted by Mario dos Reis at 6:24 PM
Thursday, June 02, 2005
During Monday morning it rained very hard, so the slabs at High Rocks were too wet to be climbed, so we settle for a little bit of music when the sunshine finally appeared.
At the end of the night we went to Pascal's house to celebrate his brirthday. Pascal got a bit pissed and afterward tried to eat one of his kittens!
Posted by Mario dos Reis at 2:47 PM