Wednesday, May 18, 2005

Brixton guidebook

Yes, Brixton Climbing Wall, the most daring of all London Crags has got its new guide book, with a complete description of all the amazing routes available! The guide is not properly finished yet, but you can have a look at it here! Read it, use it, and leave your comments.

Monday, May 09, 2005

Basset's Farm

The Garden of England

On Sunday I headed back to southern sandstone, this time with my old friend Pascal, and Jonathan a quite nice American chap. This was our first time at Basset's Farm, and to be honest this crag is set in the most breathtaking scenery of all the other sandstone crags I have visited so far (and that includes Harrison's, High Rocks, Eridge, Bowles, Bulls Hollow, Stone Farm and Under Rockes), here you are literally climbing in a beautiful garden. It is a very small crag, but with impressive and very technical climbs all above 5c in its main wall. This crag is certainly worth a visit, specially if you are a strong climber wishing to get away from the crowds!

The main wall

Pascal monkeying on Tree Route (4a)

Jonathan resting

Anaconda squeeze!

Duncan pretty happy stuck inside Anaconda Chimney

Last Saturday we headed to High Rocks, where the restoration project has had a profound impact on the quality of the climbs. The highlight of the day was Anaconda Chimney (4a), a very long, narrow, exhausting and brilliant climb! A serious contender for the best chimney climb in Britain? We also tried two of the most immaculate arĂȘtes in Sandstone: Henry The Ninth (5b, right of Infidel) and Advertisement Wall (5b, left of Engagement Wall, see pics bellow), both very technical and balancy. James, Tobby and Duncan performed superbly on Engagement Wall (6a). Other joys of the day where the jamming cracks Lucita and Marquita (both 5c), Coronation Crack (5c) a true classic, that deserves 4 stars and that I haven't been able to manage yet, Dirty Dick (4a) which is a nice route to solo, and Infidel (6a), a very technical climb that regrettably none of us manage to climb!

Patrik on the superb Engagement Wall

James on Infidel

The climbing maniacs: James, Ines, Duncan Geraldine, Caroline, Tobby and Mario

Tuesday, May 03, 2005

Yorkshire grit ...

The famous Yorkshire dales were our destination for last bank holiday weekend. We did a nice walk along the cliffs and gorges of Malham, practiced some fine bouldering at Caley, had a crack hell experience at Briham Rocks, and enjoyed a sunny and warm day of relaxed bouldering and top roping at Almscliff.

James attempting Otley Wall (V3) at Caley Crag

Success on Chicken Heads (V2)

Caroline battling with the Chips (V0-)

Geraldine testing her boots on an unknown friction slab (V1)

The climbing crew: James, Geraldine, Duncan, Caroline and Mario